I just recently re-watched The Hobbit, and one of my favorite scenes from the film is the one where Bilbo Baggins runs through the beautiful Shire yelling, "I'm going on an adventure!"
Tomorrow, I leave for my own adventure, although I'm not off to fight a dragon or reclaim a dwarven kingdom like Bilbo. No, tomorrow I leave for Lyon, and by Monday morning, I will be wandering around Morocco with my friend Bridget.
Morocco! I've always wanted to go, and Bridget and I had discussed traveling there at some point during our year abroad, but that was way back in August while we were fresh and new to France, and anyways it was always something of a pipe dream for the both of us. We never actually thought it would work out! But everything has fallen into place, and soon the two of us will be off! I'm excited and nervous and thrilled all rolled into one powerful emotion that has me hopping up and down in anticipation of this adventure. We have ironed out a pretty awesome itinerary, and I'm just hoping that we don't hit any snags along the way.
Unfortunately, we'll only have about four days in Morocco (Bridget has to be in Oslo by Friday and my parents--understandably--didn't want me staying an extra day or two alone). But hopefully four days will be enough for a good taste of the country! So, until next weekend, I'll be away on an adventure. Until next time!
Friday, February 21, 2014
Wednesday, February 19, 2014
February Spring
It's not officially spring yet, but honestly it feels like it. France has had weird weather all year (flooding in the south, weeks of tempests on the north-west coastlines) and here in Strasbourg, it's basically skipped winter. Yes, we had a chilly month of December, but temperatures throughout both January and February have barely dipped into the 30s, and it's certainly not been colder than 30 degrees Fahrenheit at any point.
It is currently mid-February, and the spring birds have been chirping non-stop for over a week now, wildflowers are actually blooming, trees around the city are budding, and the temperature has been in the mid-50s for the past 8 days with no change in the foreseeable future.
Compared to all of the blizzards bombarding the majority of the U.S., Strasbourg hasn't even seen winter. We've had a few flurries, but it looks like there will be no snow this year. I'm not even in the mood for snow anymore... I keep thinking that it's already April! My parents have been planning to join me in Switzerland for a long weekend of skiing in mid-March, and I'm just praying that there will still be snow on the mountains, as it's been so unusually warm in central Europe this winter!
That's all for now... just a quick Strasbourg weather update!
It is currently mid-February, and the spring birds have been chirping non-stop for over a week now, wildflowers are actually blooming, trees around the city are budding, and the temperature has been in the mid-50s for the past 8 days with no change in the foreseeable future.
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| Crocuses near my house, with one of the EU buildings in the background |
Compared to all of the blizzards bombarding the majority of the U.S., Strasbourg hasn't even seen winter. We've had a few flurries, but it looks like there will be no snow this year. I'm not even in the mood for snow anymore... I keep thinking that it's already April! My parents have been planning to join me in Switzerland for a long weekend of skiing in mid-March, and I'm just praying that there will still be snow on the mountains, as it's been so unusually warm in central Europe this winter!
That's all for now... just a quick Strasbourg weather update!
Saturday, February 15, 2014
The Host Family Life
What will it be like as a foreign student living with a host family? This is the question that haunted me a little before arriving in France, and it encompasses all the other nit-picky little questions that plagued me, such as: will I actually be able to communicate? Will they have any bizarre traditions or rules that I'll have to follow? Will they like me? Will I like the food? (Those last two were especially important).
I was just recently reminded of all these questions on Tuesday, when my new housemate arrived and barraged me with about a hundred questions. Her name is Emma, and she is--like Ella was--an American student from Centre College who will be spending the next three months in Strasbourg. I'll admit that it feels awesome to be able to give her helpful advice, and I think she's thankful to have a fellow 20-year-old-American-in-France. (The first words she said to me when we met where: "Wait, Karen? You're American? Oh, you speak English! Oh thank God.")
After spending over six months now under the roofs of two different host families, I think I have a decent perspective at how it feels to live with one.
Oftentimes, I feel like the house ghost, or like a bug that the whole family knows is living in the walls, but who only emerges for mealtimes. I realize that these aren't exactly attractive descriptions for what living with a host family is like, but, well... that's exactly how I feel. I hear and witness all of the daily disputes and heartwarming moments that my host family shares while still remaining a little detached from the situations.
In some ways, I really am a part of my host family. This holds true for the bad: I have to live under the same rules as everyone else, and yes, that means non-continuous three-minute showers. But it also holds true for the good: I am now a regular member of the twice-monthly Sunday family lunches, which last forever and are quite cozy. And I'm always invited out shopping or out to dinner or to the movies with Laeticia. In other ways, though, I am more of a long-term houseguest. For example, my host mother refuses to let me do any chores (honestly, I can wash a few dishes!) and I still sometimes feel as if I'm tip-toeing around the house.
Also, it's a little strange to return to mixing student life with family life. In college, my dorm room slowly devolves into a state of organized chaos until my roommate and I can no longer stand it, and we hold a big clean-up dance-party. Here, though, I've been told to clean my room by my host mother when it is just the right amount of slightly-messy, and it feels quite backwards. Set mealtimes was another thing that I had to get used to again. We always eat dinner here at 7:45pm--not at all late taking into consideration Spanish standards--and that is an unchanging obstacle. If I want to do something that starts at 8pm, I'll either arrive late to the event or I'll skip dinner (with a warning in advance to my host parents, of course).
Furthermore, I've gotten used to all of my host parents' little idiosyncrasies. Finding my host mother reading her tarot cards at breakfast (except on Mondays--they're never accurate on Mondays, apparently) no longer surprises me. As soon as the phone rings and my host mom starts chatting in Alsatian, I prepare myself for the apology that I now have memorized: "Pardon, je parle en Alsatian," to which I always reply: "Pas de souci, vous ne devrez pas vous excuser!" (It's quite interesting to try to figure out what she's saying, even though Alsatian draws a lot more from the German language than it does from French). And my host father can almost always be found tinkering in his downstairs workshop with the radio blasting all sorts of music (I almost burst out laughing the first time I heard him listening to Ke$ha and Demi Lovato).
After living in this house for many months, though, it has almost become my home. For example, I know which steps on the staircase are the creakiest (all of them) and I have free access to the fridge! Honestly, I was unsure about host family life before arriving in France, but now I know for certain that it is undoubtedly the best way to live in a foreign country as a student. I get traditional home-cooked cuisine every night, I've built relationships with great people that I never would've met otherwise, and I've learned so many lessons--in language, in French culture, in life in general--in everything!
So when Emma was questioning me about life here, I just smiled and told her, "You're going to love it."
I was just recently reminded of all these questions on Tuesday, when my new housemate arrived and barraged me with about a hundred questions. Her name is Emma, and she is--like Ella was--an American student from Centre College who will be spending the next three months in Strasbourg. I'll admit that it feels awesome to be able to give her helpful advice, and I think she's thankful to have a fellow 20-year-old-American-in-France. (The first words she said to me when we met where: "Wait, Karen? You're American? Oh, you speak English! Oh thank God.")
After spending over six months now under the roofs of two different host families, I think I have a decent perspective at how it feels to live with one.
Oftentimes, I feel like the house ghost, or like a bug that the whole family knows is living in the walls, but who only emerges for mealtimes. I realize that these aren't exactly attractive descriptions for what living with a host family is like, but, well... that's exactly how I feel. I hear and witness all of the daily disputes and heartwarming moments that my host family shares while still remaining a little detached from the situations.
In some ways, I really am a part of my host family. This holds true for the bad: I have to live under the same rules as everyone else, and yes, that means non-continuous three-minute showers. But it also holds true for the good: I am now a regular member of the twice-monthly Sunday family lunches, which last forever and are quite cozy. And I'm always invited out shopping or out to dinner or to the movies with Laeticia. In other ways, though, I am more of a long-term houseguest. For example, my host mother refuses to let me do any chores (honestly, I can wash a few dishes!) and I still sometimes feel as if I'm tip-toeing around the house.
Also, it's a little strange to return to mixing student life with family life. In college, my dorm room slowly devolves into a state of organized chaos until my roommate and I can no longer stand it, and we hold a big clean-up dance-party. Here, though, I've been told to clean my room by my host mother when it is just the right amount of slightly-messy, and it feels quite backwards. Set mealtimes was another thing that I had to get used to again. We always eat dinner here at 7:45pm--not at all late taking into consideration Spanish standards--and that is an unchanging obstacle. If I want to do something that starts at 8pm, I'll either arrive late to the event or I'll skip dinner (with a warning in advance to my host parents, of course).
Furthermore, I've gotten used to all of my host parents' little idiosyncrasies. Finding my host mother reading her tarot cards at breakfast (except on Mondays--they're never accurate on Mondays, apparently) no longer surprises me. As soon as the phone rings and my host mom starts chatting in Alsatian, I prepare myself for the apology that I now have memorized: "Pardon, je parle en Alsatian," to which I always reply: "Pas de souci, vous ne devrez pas vous excuser!" (It's quite interesting to try to figure out what she's saying, even though Alsatian draws a lot more from the German language than it does from French). And my host father can almost always be found tinkering in his downstairs workshop with the radio blasting all sorts of music (I almost burst out laughing the first time I heard him listening to Ke$ha and Demi Lovato).
After living in this house for many months, though, it has almost become my home. For example, I know which steps on the staircase are the creakiest (all of them) and I have free access to the fridge! Honestly, I was unsure about host family life before arriving in France, but now I know for certain that it is undoubtedly the best way to live in a foreign country as a student. I get traditional home-cooked cuisine every night, I've built relationships with great people that I never would've met otherwise, and I've learned so many lessons--in language, in French culture, in life in general--in everything!
So when Emma was questioning me about life here, I just smiled and told her, "You're going to love it."
Valentine's in Ribeauvillé
Two weeks ago, Kat and I made the spontaneous decision to venture out to Ribeauvillé, a small yet beautiful Alsatian town on the Wine Route. However, Ribeauvillé isn't exactly the easiest place to reach, and we ended up taking the train from Strasbourg to Selestat only to miss the bus (which only runs every two hours). So two weeks ago, our adventure in Ribeauvillé was for naught.
Yesterday, however, I was bound and determined to get to Ribeauvillé and nothing was going to stop me. Ariana and Kat originally planned to come with me, but due to slow trams and sleeping in, they were unable to get to the train station in time, and they told me that they'd arrive later on in the afternoon. So trams, trains, and buses later, I arrived in the cute little Alsatian town and started exploring. After a quick walk-through, though, I immediately (and luckily) found the tiny and unmarked road that I was looking for--a trail that led up through the vineyards and into the mountains and up to the three chateaux that overlook Ribeauvillé. (Notice how one of the castles are visible from the town: I really loved that!)
I took the trail and went hiking by myself, and it was absolutely amazing. I'm almost happy that I went hiking alone: even though I would have enjoyed Kat and Ariana's company while exploring the ruins, I spent the hike on my terms, and there's something to be said for that. The views throughout were stunning, but more than that; it was so unbelievably peaceful up there! For the entire two hours that I spent up in the mountains and exploring the ruined castles, I encountered 5 people: three women hiking together and a couple taking a stroll to the chateaux. Even more, it was perfect hiking weather (a balmy 47 degrees F, odd for February), the spring birds were chirping non-stop, and it smelled like spring. I visited St. Ulrich first, whose ruins were much more impressive. At an altitude of 523 meters, St. Ulrich was built sometime during the 11th century and inhabited until the end of the 17th century.
I do wish I could have visited when the vineyards were a bit... greener: it would've been gorgeous! Everything would have been prettier. In the dead of winter, it all seemed a little duller, a little dead, but I still loved every minute of it. And who knows, maybe I'll return in the spring?
Next I followed the trail winding a quarter-mile around the mountain to the sister chateau of Giersberg, which was mightily impressive due to how the castle was literally built into the rock face and sits perched precariously near the edge of a cliff. Unfortunately, Giersberg is completely in ruin, and there's no way into the castle unless you scuttle up some of the rock face, which was something I wasn't going to try while hiking alone. However, you get a fantastic view of St. Ulrich from the ledge of Giersberg, so it was well worth a visit.
After my hike, I walked back through town and ate lunch at a cute little café. By then, Ariana had arrived in Ribeauvillé, but she had headed straight for the second destination that the three of us had originally planned on visiting: the spa! The Centre Balneo is a hotel-casino-spa located about a 25-minute walk outside of Ribeauvillé, and it only costs 7 euro per hour to visit the spa. Following my lunch, I made my way to the spa to join Ariana, and we were joined about half and hour later by Kat, who had taken an even later bus. The Centre Balneo has three huge pools, one of which is outside and gives a full view of both the local mountains and the three castles. We almost used the sauna, but this is France and apparently no bathing suits were allowed in the sauna "for sanitary reasons" .... while most of the guests in the sauna had just wrapped towels around them, others preferred to enjoy it fully naked, and Kat, Ariana, and I just weren't ready for that. We spent our time swimming around in the pools, enjoying the panoramic views of the mountains and the soothing music.
We spent two hours (more or less) at the spa, then headed back to the bus stop to return to Strasbourg. To me, it was the perfect Valentine's Day: I went hiking, visited two ruined castles, treated myself to a delicious chocolate creation at the café, and spent a few hours at a spa with my friends. Dinner back at home was a merry affair as well, as Laeticia joined us, and our meal of spatzle-chicken-mushrooms (one of my favorites) was followed by a raspberry tart. Who says you need to be one-half of a couple to enjoy Valentine's Day?
Yesterday, however, I was bound and determined to get to Ribeauvillé and nothing was going to stop me. Ariana and Kat originally planned to come with me, but due to slow trams and sleeping in, they were unable to get to the train station in time, and they told me that they'd arrive later on in the afternoon. So trams, trains, and buses later, I arrived in the cute little Alsatian town and started exploring. After a quick walk-through, though, I immediately (and luckily) found the tiny and unmarked road that I was looking for--a trail that led up through the vineyards and into the mountains and up to the three chateaux that overlook Ribeauvillé. (Notice how one of the castles are visible from the town: I really loved that!)
I took the trail and went hiking by myself, and it was absolutely amazing. I'm almost happy that I went hiking alone: even though I would have enjoyed Kat and Ariana's company while exploring the ruins, I spent the hike on my terms, and there's something to be said for that. The views throughout were stunning, but more than that; it was so unbelievably peaceful up there! For the entire two hours that I spent up in the mountains and exploring the ruined castles, I encountered 5 people: three women hiking together and a couple taking a stroll to the chateaux. Even more, it was perfect hiking weather (a balmy 47 degrees F, odd for February), the spring birds were chirping non-stop, and it smelled like spring. I visited St. Ulrich first, whose ruins were much more impressive. At an altitude of 523 meters, St. Ulrich was built sometime during the 11th century and inhabited until the end of the 17th century.
I do wish I could have visited when the vineyards were a bit... greener: it would've been gorgeous! Everything would have been prettier. In the dead of winter, it all seemed a little duller, a little dead, but I still loved every minute of it. And who knows, maybe I'll return in the spring?
Next I followed the trail winding a quarter-mile around the mountain to the sister chateau of Giersberg, which was mightily impressive due to how the castle was literally built into the rock face and sits perched precariously near the edge of a cliff. Unfortunately, Giersberg is completely in ruin, and there's no way into the castle unless you scuttle up some of the rock face, which was something I wasn't going to try while hiking alone. However, you get a fantastic view of St. Ulrich from the ledge of Giersberg, so it was well worth a visit.
After my hike, I walked back through town and ate lunch at a cute little café. By then, Ariana had arrived in Ribeauvillé, but she had headed straight for the second destination that the three of us had originally planned on visiting: the spa! The Centre Balneo is a hotel-casino-spa located about a 25-minute walk outside of Ribeauvillé, and it only costs 7 euro per hour to visit the spa. Following my lunch, I made my way to the spa to join Ariana, and we were joined about half and hour later by Kat, who had taken an even later bus. The Centre Balneo has three huge pools, one of which is outside and gives a full view of both the local mountains and the three castles. We almost used the sauna, but this is France and apparently no bathing suits were allowed in the sauna "for sanitary reasons" .... while most of the guests in the sauna had just wrapped towels around them, others preferred to enjoy it fully naked, and Kat, Ariana, and I just weren't ready for that. We spent our time swimming around in the pools, enjoying the panoramic views of the mountains and the soothing music.
We spent two hours (more or less) at the spa, then headed back to the bus stop to return to Strasbourg. To me, it was the perfect Valentine's Day: I went hiking, visited two ruined castles, treated myself to a delicious chocolate creation at the café, and spent a few hours at a spa with my friends. Dinner back at home was a merry affair as well, as Laeticia joined us, and our meal of spatzle-chicken-mushrooms (one of my favorites) was followed by a raspberry tart. Who says you need to be one-half of a couple to enjoy Valentine's Day?
Sunday, February 9, 2014
Carnival
Otherwise titled as: the Germans know how to party.
Today, Malou drove Kat, Ariana, and I to the tiny village of Oberwinden (nestled in the Black Forest) for a Carnival celebration. However, when we arrived, the town was completely deserted. Not a soul in sight. We finally asked a local about the parades, and he told us that Oberwinden had finished its Carnival celebration yesterday, but that there was a celebration in Kenzingen this afternoon! So we turned around and headed towards Kenzingen--but not before snapping a few pictures of the beautiful Oberwinden as we drove away! (Cultural side note: see the typical Black Forest houses with the huge roofs? Usually the snow is pretty heavy in this region, so the large roofs help protect the houses).
After a slightly stressful drive to Kenzingen (I had the map and was given the task of directing Malou through unpronounceable German towns) we arrived to find the parade in full swing! The four of us joined the crowd. Brass bands marched through, followed by a mass of witches with broomsticks and bell-adorned jesters with smiling wooden masks. Then came the hoard of red-costumed characters wielding sticks with what looked like flesh-colored balloons tied to the ends--these guys hit everyone in the crowd with the balloons, which Malou told us were actually blown-up cow stomachs or bladders! I was hit six or seven times by the stomach-balloons--hopefully it's good luck?!
I had had no idea of what to expect at a Carnival celebration, so I was a little surprised to find that everyone was dressed in crazy costumes... even those who weren't part of the parade! There were flag banners strung across the streets, and the air was filled with the jingle of bells, the brass band's music, and the cries of the crowd (although I have no idea what they were saying). Everyone was so excited and happy (and slightly tipsy)--the attitude was infectious.
After the last of the parade walked by, the four of us joined all the spectators in walking behind the last brass band members. Then, all order dissolved and people were crowding the food stalls along the sides of the road, doing what Germans do best: drinking. Malou, Kat, Ariana, and I grabbed sausages and hot wine from one of the stalls and ate while watching all the costumed people dancing and drinking in the streets. (I, meanwhile, went into full-tourist mode and tried to sneakily take pictures of all of the elaborate costumes and masks that people were wearing.)
The bands kept playing, providing background music, and all in all, it was quite a jolly affair. I know that Kenzingen's Carnival probably pales in comparison to the larger and more well-known parades in Venice and in Cologne (I mean, Kenzingen is just a tiny town in Germany), but to me, it was perfect. The whole atmosphere was so jovial and everyone was so friendly and it was finally sunny... it was the perfect Carnival, and furthermore, the perfect Sunday afternoon! I'll end with my absolute favorite photo from the day.
Today, Malou drove Kat, Ariana, and I to the tiny village of Oberwinden (nestled in the Black Forest) for a Carnival celebration. However, when we arrived, the town was completely deserted. Not a soul in sight. We finally asked a local about the parades, and he told us that Oberwinden had finished its Carnival celebration yesterday, but that there was a celebration in Kenzingen this afternoon! So we turned around and headed towards Kenzingen--but not before snapping a few pictures of the beautiful Oberwinden as we drove away! (Cultural side note: see the typical Black Forest houses with the huge roofs? Usually the snow is pretty heavy in this region, so the large roofs help protect the houses).
 |
| That tiny village down in the valley is Oberwinden |
After a slightly stressful drive to Kenzingen (I had the map and was given the task of directing Malou through unpronounceable German towns) we arrived to find the parade in full swing! The four of us joined the crowd. Brass bands marched through, followed by a mass of witches with broomsticks and bell-adorned jesters with smiling wooden masks. Then came the hoard of red-costumed characters wielding sticks with what looked like flesh-colored balloons tied to the ends--these guys hit everyone in the crowd with the balloons, which Malou told us were actually blown-up cow stomachs or bladders! I was hit six or seven times by the stomach-balloons--hopefully it's good luck?!
I had had no idea of what to expect at a Carnival celebration, so I was a little surprised to find that everyone was dressed in crazy costumes... even those who weren't part of the parade! There were flag banners strung across the streets, and the air was filled with the jingle of bells, the brass band's music, and the cries of the crowd (although I have no idea what they were saying). Everyone was so excited and happy (and slightly tipsy)--the attitude was infectious.
 |
| These two boys were absolutely adorable. And they hit me with their stomach- balloons twice each. |
After the last of the parade walked by, the four of us joined all the spectators in walking behind the last brass band members. Then, all order dissolved and people were crowding the food stalls along the sides of the road, doing what Germans do best: drinking. Malou, Kat, Ariana, and I grabbed sausages and hot wine from one of the stalls and ate while watching all the costumed people dancing and drinking in the streets. (I, meanwhile, went into full-tourist mode and tried to sneakily take pictures of all of the elaborate costumes and masks that people were wearing.)
The bands kept playing, providing background music, and all in all, it was quite a jolly affair. I know that Kenzingen's Carnival probably pales in comparison to the larger and more well-known parades in Venice and in Cologne (I mean, Kenzingen is just a tiny town in Germany), but to me, it was perfect. The whole atmosphere was so jovial and everyone was so friendly and it was finally sunny... it was the perfect Carnival, and furthermore, the perfect Sunday afternoon! I'll end with my absolute favorite photo from the day.
Friday, February 7, 2014
Wanderings
Lately, I've adopted the habit of wandering through Strasbourg after my classes have finished--sometimes while listening to music, other times without my iPod. I don't walk through the main streets, though: instead, I zig-zag through tiny side streets that are (mostly) too small for cars and hold no real interest for the tourists zipping through the city. It's been fun getting a little lost in the maze of charming alleys and finding my way back again. I almost always take a picture or two, so here are a few of my favorites from my afternoons of wandering Strasbourg:
I know I haven't been updating this blog as often as I did last fall, but it's just been a temporary lull. I haven't really gone on an adventure in a while (my plans keep falling through) but in the next few weeks I'll start traveling again. My tickets to MOROCCO for the last week of February are already booked (I'm so excited!) and I'm planning a trip to Italy to visit a really good friend around Easter, so I'll definitely be off adventuring soon! And actually, I'm heading to a tiny village in Germany on Sunday with Malou and the other girls for a little Carnival celebration. So until next time!
I know I haven't been updating this blog as often as I did last fall, but it's just been a temporary lull. I haven't really gone on an adventure in a while (my plans keep falling through) but in the next few weeks I'll start traveling again. My tickets to MOROCCO for the last week of February are already booked (I'm so excited!) and I'm planning a trip to Italy to visit a really good friend around Easter, so I'll definitely be off adventuring soon! And actually, I'm heading to a tiny village in Germany on Sunday with Malou and the other girls for a little Carnival celebration. So until next time!
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